A Day Spent in Palermo, Sicily
Sicily, Italy
If you’ve booked one of our riding holidays in Sicily, Italy and have allowed yourself some time to explore Palermo, prepare for a sensory feast! Palermo is a city where Byzantine mosaics, Arabesque domes, bustling markets and the tantalising scents of street food collide in glorious chaos. Wandering its streets feels like peeling back centuries of cultural layers – and trust us, you’ll want to savour every moment.
First things first: Palermo is a city best explored on foot. The historic centre is compact enough to navigate easily and largely a pedestrian zone. You’ll stumble across hidden piazzas, faded palazzi and crumbling churches simply by letting your feet – and your curiosity – lead the way. Public transport is also available, with buses and trams covering most areas, but traffic can be chaotic and services a little unpredictable, so walking remains the best (and most rewarding) way to take it all in. We really enjoyed this free walking tour.
Sights and activities
Palermo Cathedral – officially called Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta – is located right in the centre of the city, making it a great place to orient yourself on arrival. The complex structure is a patchwork of Norman, Moorish, Gothic and Baroque architecture that perfectly encapsulates the city’s layered past. If you’re feeling energetic, climb to the rooftop for sweeping views across Palermo’s skyline and the mountains and ocean beyond.
From there, it’s about a five-minute walk to Quattro Canti, or Piazza Vigliena, the octagonal Baroque piazza that marks the heart of the old city. The sides are framed by statues representing the four seasons, four Spanish kings, and Palermo’s patron saints. As you take in the bustle of local life, you might spot street performers, or even a wedding party en route to a nearby church. A few steps away lies Piazza Pretoria, dominated by the lavish Fontana Pretoria, whose bold and somewhat scandalous statues earned it the nickname ‘The Fountain of Shame’!
Nearby, explore the churches of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (La Martorana) and San Cataldo, side by side in Piazza Bellini. La Martorana dazzles with intricate Byzantine mosaics, while San Cataldo’s three red domes speak to the Arab-Norman influence that defines much of Palermo’s historic architecture. You can’t help but be awestruck by the grandeur of these monuments.
For a true taste of daily life, make your way to the raucous Ballarò Market. It’s Palermo’s oldest market, and an explosion of colour, noise and intoxicating aromas. Stalls brim with fresh produce, seafood, spices and street food sizzling on the grill. Even if you’re not hungry, it’s worth a wander just for the atmosphere.
If you have a little extra time and energy, a visit to the Teatro Massimo is highly recommended. It’s the largest opera house in Italy (!!) and a beautiful example of neoclassical architecture. Even if you don’t have time for a performance, guided tours are available and offer a fascinating glimpse behind the scenes.
The Cathedral of Monreale, just a 30-minute bus ride from the city centre, is widely considered to be one of the most stunning cathedrals in Europe. The heavy Norman walls and towers protect more than 6,000 square metres of golden mosaics, each tiny tile telling stories of saints, kings and angels, and shaped by soaring arches bathed in soft shafts of light.
Bonus points: If you have time, consider a day trip to Cefalù, a picturesque seaside town just over an hour away by train. Wander its medieval laneways, admire its stunning cathedral, swim in balmy turquoise waters, and enjoy fresh seafood by the beach – a breath of fresh air after the bustle of Palermo.
Places to eat
Ristorante Quattro Mani offers a cosy atmosphere where you can enjoy high-quality Italian and seafood dishes. The restaurant prides itself on using fresh ingredients to create flavourful meals that reflect the essence of Sicilian home cooking.
Seafood enthusiasts can’t go past Osteria Mercede. Situated near Teatro Massimo, this unpretentious eatery is renowned for its fresh, locally sourced fish dishes and warm, attentive service.
For a modern twist on Sicilian cuisine, Sesto Canto offers a creative menu that caters to various dietary preferences, including gluten-free options. The restaurant’s jazz-inspired ambiance makes it especially charming.
For fine dining, L’Ottava Nota presents a sophisticated menu that artfully combines traditional Sicilian flavours with contemporary techniques. Recognised in the Michelin Guide, you know this place is the real deal.
Cannoli is practically a religion in Palermo – it would be a crime not to indulge! Pasticceria Cappello is a short stroll from the historic centre and widely considered to produce some of Sicily’s best cannoli. Their chocolate cake (Setteveli) is also legendary.
And for a taste of Palermo’s lively nightlife, head to Taverna Azzurra in the Vucciria district. This no-frills, always-buzzing bar is a true local institution.
Accommodation
Your best bet at finding a good and affordable place to stay in Palermo is to jump on Airbnb and look for a room in (or very near) the historic city centre. If you haven’t used Airbnb before, never fear, it is brilliant! Just make sure you read the reviews carefully before you book.
We loved our time at this beautiful suite within what was once the residence of the Prince of Castelnuovo. The hosts, Claudia and Stefano, are a delight, and will organise your transfer from the airport, too.
Have fun, globetrotters!
Image credits: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock.com, illpaxphotomatic/Shutterstock.com, Jan Ohrstrom/Shutterstock.com, Milan Sommer/Shutterstock.com.